Purple Gooseberry Pie

Gooseberries, a fruit closely related to the currant, are one of those fleeting summer berries rarely found outside their local growing area. We had them growing up in Iowa, bright green and dastardly tart, they would appear for a week or so in early summer and then they were gone. So I was surprised to see a crimson-purple version at our Farmer's market last week.

This violet strain was developed in North Dakota in 1932 in an effort to repopulate the upper-Midwest with the tear-dropped shaped fruit after a ban to grow them was lifted the year before. Similar to its other American counterparts the berries start off green, but then ripen to a rosy purple. They were much sweeter than the ones I remember eating as a kid, more like a tart raspberry than a mouth puckering cranberry.

You can make this pie using the green variety, although you might want to add a 1/4 cup or so more sugar. And I have a confession to make about the pie dough. I like to make it in two batches, I think it is much easier to handle. If you don't have a problem dealing with large amounts of dough, than follow the recipe as written, but if you are a crust-newbie, try cutting the ingredients in half and make it in two batches.

Purple Gooseberry Pie
(Printable Recipe)

Makes 1 (9-inch) pie

For the crust:
3 cups all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup frozen vegetable shortening, cut into small pieces
1/2 cup ice water

For the filling:
2 pints gooseberries
1 cup granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling
3 tablespoons tapioca starch
1 teaspoon apple pie spice
1 large egg

For the crust:

1. Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl and stir to incorporate. Add shortening and toss until the pieces are coated with flour. Using a dough cutter, cut shortening into the flour until pea-sized pieces form.

2. Add water, a couple tablespoons at a time, and blend into dough by tossing with your fingers (don't knead the dough). Once dough starts coming together, divide into 2 balls then flatten into compact disks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile line a baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil and place on the bottom rack in the oven. Heat oven to 425°F.

For the filling:

1. Rinse gooseberries and remove the stems and hulls. Place in a large bowl and add sugar, tapioca and apple pie spice. Stir to combine. 

To assemble:

1. On a lightly floured surface, roll 1 disk of dough into a 11 to 12-inch circle (about 1/8-inch thick), and place in a 9-inch pie plate. Press into plate so the dough is snug against the edge.

2. Give filling one last stir to mix all the ingredients and pour into pie shell, making sure filling is evenly distributed. 

3. Roll out remaining disk of dough the same as the first and lay over filling. Pinch the two edges of dough together and trim flush against the lip of the pie plate.

4. Make a decorative edge by pressing the back of a fork along the edge of the dough. With a sharp knife, make a few slits on the top of the pie to let steam escape, or cut out a decorative pattern.

5. Beat egg with a teaspoon of water and brush egg wash over the top of the pie. Sprinkle top with sugar and place on heated baking sheet in the oven. Bake until just starting to turn golden, about 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350°F. Continue baking until crust is a deep golden brown and filling is bubbling in the middle, about 45 to 50 minutes more. Remove from oven and let cool at least 1 hour before serving.

Almond Salsa Verde Recipe

Even here in the blistering cold hinterlands signs of spring are appearing. And by that I mean good signs, like green grass and small, precious blossoms on trees. Until now signs of spring have primarily been represented by 25 foot levees built to hold back the winter melt-off that has turned our rivers into something that would rival the confluence of the Mississippi and the Amazon. Friends and family who call mainly want to know if all the snow has melted and for the first time in 7 months I can emphatically say, YES!

I have yet to plant a seedling (that won't happen until after Memorial Day) or break out my grill, but spring flavors are slowly creeping their way into the kitchen. Little hints of brightness have appeared on cold-weather stalwarts like roast chicken and creamy, pureed soups.

I got it in my head that a fresh salsa verde might be a nice introduction to the lighter flavors of spring. Just a touch of something summery and vivid, to liven up the tone of our meals. I served this salsa with roast chicken and it was gone in one meal, but it's piquant flavors would compliment any roasted or grilled meat. Other uses might be beaten into soft goat cheese and spread on crisp bread, swirled into soup, piled high with a little sour cream on a baked potato, really the options are endless.

It takes a bit of chopping, but instead of spending hours on the main course, prepare a fast grilled steak and serve it with this salsa, just as much flavor in half the time.

Almond Salsa Verde
(Print this recipe)
Makes 2 cups

1 cup minced fresh parsley
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup almonds, toasted and finely chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons capers, chopped
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

1. Combine all ingredients; mix well until thoroughly moistened. Serve with roasted or grilled meats or hearty vegetables, like baked potatoes, roasted carrots or grilled asparagus. Salsa verde will keep in refrigerator, covered, for up to 3 days.

Summer Squash Tacos

I am a woman on a mission. I'm determined, maybe obsessive is a better word, to buy up every beautiful fruit and vegetable at the Farmer's market and eat it before it is all gone. Which will be very shortly my friends.

Every time I go to the Farmer's market I picture the mountains of snow that will soon be piled high above my head and how my produce options will be limited to the pathetic-looking specimens in the supermarket. Admittedly, I would make a pitiful Laura Ingalls Wilder out here on the prairie. I enjoy all the modern day conveniences and still complain about not having locally-grown produce in the middle of winter. I guess living in San Francisco destroyed my inner-homsteader.

All this vegetable hoarding has led The Professor to declare last week, "I can't have pasta or stir-fry again tonight." He can't stand bean or grain salads so I started thinking tacos. Summer squash make excellent tacos when tossed in a hot pan with a little onion and spice. The trick is to make sure the pan and oil are hot, but not smoking, and to not stir too much. This will give you nice charred spots without the squash turning to mush.

Summer Squash Tacos
(Printable Recipe)

Makes 3-4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 red onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound zucchini, yellow, or patty pan squash, quartered and sliced into 1/2-inch thick slices
1/2 teaspoon minced rosemary
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
10-12 corn tortillas
Pico de Gallo and sour cream, for serving


1. Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Once shimmering add onion and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook until just starting to brown. Add squash, rosemary, and cumin, and season again with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is tender and browned in a few spots.

2. Meanwhile, heat a medium frying pan over medium heat. Once warm, add tortillas one at a time, toasting lightly on both sides. Transfer tortillas to a clean kitchen towel to keep warm. Once squash is nicely browned, transfer to a warm bowl and serve with tortillas, pico de gallo and sour cream

Pico de Gallo

I've been going down my roster of requisite recipes that I make every tomato season. Ones that really require fresh-picked, fragrant, ripe tomatoes. I haven't gotten to BLT yet. It is by far my favorite and I have been waiting for my own tomatoes to become ripe enough for the distinct honor of being sliced and placed between smoky bacon, bread and mayonnaise.

I have made several batches of Pico de Gallo, the bona fide version of what most supermarkets sell in jars as "salsa". Every time I make it I think I've made too much, but by the end of dinner it is gone. If a measly cup makes it to the next day it is quickly snatched up by whoever spots it first for topping their scrambled eggs or spooning onto quesadillas.

I guess everyone knows when tomato season is over, so is pico de gallo.

Pico de Gallo
 (Printable Recipe)
Makes 5 cups salsa

4 cups diced tomatoes, about 6 large tomatoes
1/3 cup minced onion
2 jalapeños, seeded if desired and minced
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
Juice of 3 medium limes
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Taste and add more lime juice or salt if desired.

Prairie Garden Salad

Our landlord Bob dropped off a grocery sack full of beets the other day, as well as a sack of dirt-covered onions and a large Folger's can of green beans. These are the kinds of surprises I like to find on my back steps, but ones that unfortunately will only last through the next month or so.I'm a huge fan of beets. In some warmer parts of the country they are considered a winter vegetable, but here on the frigid prairie, there is really only one growing season and that is right now.

Staring at the gigantic pile of beets I started considering whether you can freeze beets, because I wouldn't mind saving a few of them for mid-winter salads or side dishes. I am betting we receive another bag-o-beets before the season is through, so I might try freezing those and report back on the success (or failure) of that project.

For this lot however, I couldn't resist roasting them up and tossing them in a salad with some baby romaine I had just harvested from the garden. This is an extraordinarily simple salad and one I make almost nightly with whatever I have on hand, feel free to swap vinegars and veggies to suit your tastes.

Prairie Garden Salad
(Printable Recipe)
Makes 4 servings

2 large beets, washed and thoroughly dried
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cups baby romaine, washed, thoroughly dried, and torn into bite-sized pieces
1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
1/4 cup toasted walnuts
1 tablespoon orange-muscat vinegar

1. Heat oven to 425°F and place beets in an oven-safe dish. Drizzle 1 tablespoon oil over beets and season generously with salt and pepper. Toss to coat beets in oil. Cover with foil and roast until a sharp knife is easily inserted in the beets, about 45 minutes. Carefully remove foil and let cool. When cool enough to handle peel beets by simply rubbing off the skin with your fingers. Cut off ends, cut into quarters, then slice in 1/2-inch thick slices.

2. Place beets, romaine, cucumber, and walnuts in a large salad bowl. Drizzle with vinegar, remaining olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss to combine and add more salt or pepper as needed.

Sweet Corn and Chard Soup

Making the most of summer means using every edible part of each fleeting fresh vegetable. We are in the sweetest heart of the growing season—finally! And I'm ecstatic about all the fruits and veggies coming out of the garden and for sale at the Farmer's market.

My plan was to grow things in my garden that I couldn't get at the Farmer's market to give myself the widest range of options. That has worked to some extent. My chard has been going gang-busters all summer, what I thought to be Romesco broccoli however, turned out to be an overgrown weed. I mean really, how was I supposed to know what it looked like? It was in the row marked broccoli. Unfortunately this gigantic broccoli-imitating weed took over what probably was my actual plants at one point and left me with two very puny real broccoli plants. They are still growing, but unless it stays very warm through October, I'm probably out of luck.

All this chard on the other hand has been wonderful in tomato sauce and risottos and I've been using the stems in place of celery all summer long. They are sweeter than celery, but have the same great crunch, and are great in soups, tuna salad, and pasta. I just use the stems in this soup, but chard leaves would work excellent here as well. They shrivel down to nothing, so I would add an entire bunch to this recipe if I were using them.

I used leftover grilled corn which lent a nice smoky flavor to this soup. If you don't want to bother grilling the corn, just add raw sweet corn and let it cook until tender. If you're feeling really ambitious, you can make the stock for this soup with the ears of corn. Just remove all the corn kernels and place the cobs in a stock pot with onion, garlic, bay leaf, peppercorns and some chicken bones if you have them. Let it come to a boil and simmer for an hour or two, until the liquid tastes sufficiently corny.

I like to purée this soup a little to give it a touch of creaminess (without adding cream). You can leave it chunky, or puree completely smooth. Add a few garnishes for color and flavor like thinly sliced red chiles, avocado or sour cream.

Sweet Corn and Chard Soup
Printable Recipe

Makes 6 servings

1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch chard stems, chopped (about 2 cups chopped)
1 large bell pepper, diced
1 jalapeño, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 cup white wine
3 cups sweet corn (about 6 ears, kernels removed)
2 large russet potatoes, peeled and diced
6 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

For garnish:
avocado
sour cream
sliced red chiles

1. Heat oil in a large stock pot over medium-high heat. Once oil is shimmering, add onion and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add chard stems, bell pepper, and jalapeño, and season again with salt and pepper. Let cook, stirring occasionally, until pepper is tender, about 4 minutes more.

2. Add cumin and stir to combine. Add wine and scrape any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pot. Add corn, potatoes, and stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until potatoes and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Partially blend to desired consistency. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Serve each bowl with a dollop of sour cream, some diced avocado and a few slices of red chile.